[Andrew Boswell]

So having moved back from the Shire to Inverness, and with multiple lochs now on my doorstep (and included on the local Association tickets), I’d like to get my hands on a rod for traditional “loch style” fishing.

As a tackle tart, I’ve got lots of tippy 10’ #7s and bendy 8’ #4’s and the like, but nothing in the 10’ #5 group. My wife has also allocated me a tackle grotto in the new house which needs filled.

Could I have some recommendations for a longer rod, capable of casting a team of 3 flies please? I prefer a medium action over the modern pokers - the Winston B2X I bought from Irvine recently is spot on.

Something like this perhaps?

[Mike Barrio]

What about the Daiwa Whisker 11' 3" that Steven has in the for sale section?

[Andrew Boswell]

Thanks Mike - I had asked Steven about it, but it lacks a “fighting butt” which I prefer in rods >9’. Longer rods that just end in the reel seat look “awkward” to me 

[Mike Barrio]

it lacks a “fighting butt”

Yes, I know what you mean.

I reckon there is maybe a 'Trout Spey' rod out there that would make a good Loch Style rod, if you could find one that had a medium action and that loaded nicely with a #5 line.
It would need a bit of research though, as the rod ratings can be tricky, a #3 rod needing an #8 line to load it for example.

Liking the mobile screen shots in your posts by the way 

Cheers
Mike

[Andrew Boswell]

The other option of course is to go down the Custom build route - but with the cost of rods now, “preloved” would be my first choice. The problem with older rods however is that a broken tip consigns the rest of the rod to holding up  the sweetpeas (unless it’s a Sage, but even then a replacement section is pricey).

[Mike Barrio]

Nice one Andrew - I've just placed a bid on an 'old skool' rod 

[John Wastle]

Andrew, If I was after a traditional lochstyle rod I would like to get my hands on a Cadence 11' #6 to try.

Secondhand I would be looking for a Hardy Marksman Drifter which was made in 10' and 11' versions (5 &6wt if I recall).

I have gone route of using a 10/11' 4wt river nymph rod for short lochstyle with 10' #6wts for pulling intermediates and sinkers. I'll still occasionlly use a 10' #7 for heavy sunk line, lure fishing and loch salmon.

John

[Steven Kidd]

Hello,

My loch style rod of choice these days is an 11ft 5wt Bloke XL50.  I bought the blank and built that one myself, its excellent to fish with and paired with a GT125, it is brilliant.

Steven

[Andrew Boswell]

Andrew, If I was after a traditional lochstyle rod I would like to get my hands on a Cadence 11' #6 to try.

Secondhand I would be looking for a Hardy Marksman Drifter which was made in 10' and 11' versions (5 &6wt if I recall).

I have gone route of using a 10/11' 4wt river nymph rod for short lochstyle with 10' #6wts for pulling intermediates and sinkers. I'll still occasionlly use a 10' #7 for heavy sunk line, lure fishing and loch salmon.

John

That Hardy looks like a great contender - if only we could rewind back to 2012 for a bargain!

[John Wastle]

I  know a couple of people who bought them then. I wish I had too!

[Robert MacDonald-Lewis]

I had a couple of the Taniwha 10ft 3wt and 4wt graphite blanks built. Excellent rods, and ideal for loch fishing. Also didn't break the bank.

[James Laraway]

I had wondered if their  'euro nymphing' rods were any good for 'lock style' fishing....

I didn't buy one as i didn't know if the action on them was the same as a 'normal rod'

I had a couple of the Taniwha 10ft 3wt and 4wt graphite blanks built. Excellent rods, and ideal for loch fishing. Also didn't break the bank.

[Sandy Nelson]

Euronymph rods generally have too soft a tip to be really good for lochstyle, this is what i've discovered as i've been exploring what might actually work.

The original Barrio Lochstyle was actually a 10' 8" blank so what i'd like to know is what length would people want a lochstyle rod to be?

10', 10'6" or 11' or something else?

I will be getting a UK made blank, over the winter, done especially for a lochstyle rod, length and line rating are a starting point, i was thinking 11' for a 5/6 being about right but what is everyones thoughts? when i start i will have some opportunity to adjust section actions too to make something that really does tick the boxes.

What would you want it to be in terms of action, length and line weight, number of sections (this affects the cost so is a variable)

Cheers

Sandy

[Steven Sinclair]

11' for a #5 gets my vote 👍

Although it could be argued that the size of the angler can play a part also.

With my ape like knuckle dragger arm length a I work the Bob on a 9' just as well as a certain other family member can with a 10'er 😅

Cheers,

Steven.

[Andrew Boswell]

I would go for:

Length: between 10’6 and 11’

Action: Winston Boron II-esque

Weight: 5/6

Sections: 4 (I have a 3-section 11’3 Whisker and it’s a ballache to fit in the car boot)

[Eddie Sinclair]

11' for a #5 gets my vote 👍

Although it could be argued that the size of the angler can play a part also.

With my ape like knuckle dragger arm length a I work the Bob on a 9' just as well as a certain other family member can with a 10'er 😅

Cheers,

Steven.

What are you trying to say?

[James Laraway]

Personally I think i'd go for 10'6"
Id also probably go for a #4 or a #5 rather than an #6 as most loch brownies tend to be pretty small so there is no fund in 'over-gunning it'
Action I'd go med-fast.
Number of sections is a tricky one as the more you have the more you need to check aren't coming loose.  I'd also say to all manufacturers out there please please put alignments dots on your blanks. My #10 loop has them as goes my Zpey carbon #6. I love them and it does make life soooo much easier

Euronymph rods generally have too soft a tip to be really good for lochstyle, this is what i've discovered as i've been exploring what might actually work.

The original Barrio Lochstyle was actually a 10' 8" blank so what i'd like to know is what length would people want a lochstyle rod to be?

10', 10'6" or 11' or something else?

I will be getting a UK made blank, over the winter, done especially for a lochstyle rod, length and line rating are a starting point, i was thinking 11' for a 5/6 being about right but what is everyones thoughts? when i start i will have some opportunity to adjust section actions too to make something that really does tick the boxes.

What would you want it to be in terms of action, length and line weight, number of sections (this affects the cost so is a variable)

Cheers

Sandy

[Steven Kidd]

Hello,

As I say I fish the Bloke 11ft 5wt from a boat on big lochs.......however I have often looked for something lighter, something like a 10'6" 4wt maybe, would be pretty cool.  Something with the same sort of action as my Bloke or even a Diawa Whisker!

The thing is with loch rods, its often the weather / wind you size for and not so much the size of the trout or flies you plan to tempt them with.

Steven

[Sandy Nelson]

I'd also say to all manufacturers out there please please put alignments dots on your blanks.

Interesting, i add them to all my customer builds as lots of folk ask for them, but don't use them on my own rods. I find even with the dots, when i assemble the sections i still line them up by eye after i've aligned the dots, just to be sure. Makes it a two step process rather than a  single one, to assemble the rod. Kinda renders it pointless unless its a double hander where the sections might twist so it maybe helps you notice and sort it out, but i still think a MK 1 eyeball along the blank is the best way to check for alignment and I bet you still do it even with Dots 

You would be surprised how much extra time it takes to add them properly (after the second coat but before the third, so they are protected)

[Eddie Sinclair]

I currently use a ten foot four weight for most of my loch style fishing. I would definitely appreciate a ten six or an eleven footer so I could work the bob at more distance from the boat.

Eddie

[James Laraway]

I totally rely on the dots - i dont do it by eye at all if i have the dots .....

I think you may have a touch of OCD there Sandy 

You having mentioned how long it takes to do it i can now see why most manufacturers dont do it....

Interesting, i add them to all my customer builds as lots of folk ask for them, but don't use them on my own rods. I find even with the dots, when i assemble the sections i still line them up by eye after i've aligned the dots, just to be sure. Makes it a two step process rather than a  single one, to assemble the rod. Kinda renders it pointless unless its a double hander where the sections might twist so it maybe helps you notice and sort it out, but i still think a MK 1 eyeball along the blank is the best way to check for alignment and I bet you still do it even with Dots 

You would be surprised how much extra time it takes to add them properly (after the second coat but before the third, so they are protected)

[Sandy Nelson]

I currently use a ten foot four weight for most of my loch style fishing. I would definitely appreciate a ten six or an eleven footer so I could work the bob at more distance from the boat.

Eddie

This is what i was thinking too.  So the next question is Med -Fast is quite an ambiguous term which mean different things to different people. Getting the rod to cast with a classic action and minimising the tip weight is something i have no problem working with, for me going with a medium or even a Med-Fast means we can have the tip a bit more rigid, i would expect that to be beneficial for dibbling a fly rather than having a fast/soft tip. Utilising the medium action correctly we should be able to get the rod to bend deeply so you get feel with smaller fish and still carry through to the tip so it can absorb the power from something bigger that smash you close in (particularly on the bob). The trick will be the balance but by going for a true 5wt in 11' as a base it should be achievable with a rod that will work from 4wt-6wt depending on what folk prefer.
If this sounds about right, i'm speaking to Ross during the week to see what is in the Norwich back catalogue in terms of designs to start from, but we already have a good outline for him to create something and from our conversations so far he already has something up his sleeve so hopefully i can start playing soon.
once there is a proto done (sometime over the winter) i'll need a few folk to test it 

[Terry Coging]

I currently use a ten foot four weight for most of my loch style fishing. I would definitely appreciate a ten six or an eleven footer so I could work the bob at more distance from the boat.

So why not go all the way and consider a 14'6" or 15' wafter? Start  working the bob several yards further out and then work the middle dropper after lifting off the bob? The ascending and dangled middle dropper can often outfish the bob.
Terry - the voice in the wilderness  

[Eddie Sinclair]

Sandy,

Count me in for testing duties.

Terry, whilst I do actually like the idea of wafting I think I will stay traditional for now.

Eddie

[Steven Sinclair]

Sandy,

I too am very much game if testers are required 😎

Cheers,

Steven.